INGREDIENTS: 2 pounds / 900 g small apples, such as Lady apples2 1/4 cups / 400 g sucanat2 cups / 475 ml water2 cups / 475 ml unseasoned rice vinegar2 cups / 475 ml white wine vinegar1 cinnamon stick3 cloves10 black peppercorns1 bay leaf1 1/2 pounds / 680 g fresh tart apples, such as Pink Lady, Honeycrisp, or Cortland Poke each small apple a few times with a skewer or push pin. Place the apples in a 3-quart /3 L crock or jar.PREPARATION:In a medium saucepan, bring the sucanat, water, rice vinegar, wine vinegar, cinnamon, cloves, peppercorns, and bay leaf to a boil. Pour the hot brine over the apples and cover the container. Leave them to sit for 1 month in a cool, dark place. To make the apple butter, drain the pickled apples, reserving the brine. Cut the pickled apples into 1-inch / 2.5 cm slices and place them in a Dutch oven or other large, heavy pot. Cut the fresh apples into 1-inch / 2.5 cm slices and add them to the pot. Pour in enough of the pickling brine to come halfway up the apples (you will use about half of the reserved brine); discard the rest of the brine. Cover the apples and brine with a circle of parchment paper (a cartouche) and bring to a boil over medium heat. Cook at a rapid simmer, stirring frequently once the apples begin to soften. Continue cooking until the apples are falling apart and only a shallow layer of liquid remains on the bottom of the pan, about 45 minutes. Scrape the mixture in batches into a food mill and pass it through the mill to make a very thick, smooth puree. Pack the hot apple butter into small jars, cap them tightly, and refrigerate for up to 4 months. For even longer keeping, see Notes on Canning (in the book). SERVING SUGGESTIONS:FILL THUMBPRINT OR OTHER COOKIES / SPREAD ON BUTTERMILK BISCUITS AND TOP WITH BACON / USE AS A FILLING IN LAYER CAKE WITH MAPLE BUTTERCREAM /ENJOY WITH CHARCUTERIE AND CHEESE